Ndop Resist Dyed Cloth

The resist stitched, indigo-dyed cloth of the Bamileke of grassland Cameroon is called Ndop. The basic fabric is strip woven cotton from northern Cameroon. This cloth is brought down to the Bamileke villages where women artisans stitch in the geometrical resist design in raphia thread. The cloth is then taken back north where it is dyed with indigo. The dyed cloth is transported back south where the raphia stitches get unpicked to reveal the pattern of white resist against a blue background. Bamileke patterns are usually tribal, geometrical or abstract. Ndop of more figurative designs are made in Nigeria and feature animals such as lizards, scorpions, leopards and even humans. Sometimes strips of both origins are combined. The Ndop has many traditional functions. Edged with red it is used for male dancers skirts. Larger older cloths are used as ceremonial backdrops and floor coverings.