Stiff and luxurious Fez sashes were worn by women all over Morocco on ceremonial or festive occasions, but in the 20th century they were worn mostly by brides on their wedding day. The highly complex lampas weaving technique requires two people per loom and incorporates supplementary weft and warp. The designs on these sashes almost always progress and change lengthwise which presents a huge challenge to the weavers.
The repeating yellow floral motif on a faded purple ground seen here is likely inspired by French textile designs of the early 18th century while the orange ground design is more Mooresque. The ends are braided into tassels. A sash would be worn draped a few times around the waist over a kaftan and the width, dictated by the loom, is almost always cut in half to provide comfort and to allow both halves to be used separately, probably by two heirs of the original owner.
Circa: 19th Century
Origin: Fez, Morocco
Material: Silk and metallic thread on cotton foundation
Dimensions: 113" x 7.5"
Inventory number: TX4692
This Fez sash exemplifies the highly complex lampas weaving technique which requires two people per loom and incorporates supplementary weft and warp.