Early Islamic Brocade

The geometric pattern decorating this fragment of Central Asian silk lampas seems deceptively simple. Zigzagging stripes form a vertical plan, but because they are interlaced with horizontal strips running through them they also form six pointed stars. The centers of the stars contain flowerheads with either four or eight petals appearing alternately, all of them heart shaped and they are surrounded by typical foliage.The lampas technique with its two faced surface gives the textile a three dimensional effect and helps subjugating the metal wrapped threads. Comparing the design with similar designs found on metal work and stucco, the origin of this lampas is either eastern Iran or Afghanistan and it dates to the 13th century. A similar fragment is in the David Collection in Copenhagen and illustrated in “Woven Treasures, Textiles from the World of Islam” page51.