Chand Bagh Phulkari

Phulkari were traditionally made in Punjab, on both the Indian and Pakistani side. They were part of a woman’s dowry and used as head covering or shawl. They were created by both Muslim and Hindu women. This phulkari is Muslim due to its use of abstract motifs.

Phulkari consist of a cotton ground (khaddar), with silk embroidery. This particular ground is dyed with madder to a deep reddish brown, which dates it to the 20th century. Earlier 19th century phulkari have a white ground. This piece is made up of 4 panels sewn together after being embroidered with a field of silver abstract diamonds, and a gold and purple geometric border.

Phulkaris  are typically worked on entirely from the reverse side of the fabric using darning stitches over counted threads, so the artist does not usually see the front while creating the pattern. The stitches were done in different directions to give the pattern a variation in  texture and make it appear as if the single-colored thread had different hues.